PARIS — The haute couture debut of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel captivated fashion enthusiasts with an unexpected source of inspiration: Japanese anime. A haiku struck Blazy profoundly. Bird on a mushroom. / I saw the beauty at once. / Then gone, flown away. “It was so poetic,” he reflected during a preview. “In light of everyday life, I wondered if couture could provide a brief escape, almost like a dream, even if it’s just for 20 minutes, allowing us to lay poetry before us. That was the essence: this bird on a mushroom.”
The collection revolved around concepts of birds, mushrooms, beauty, and the transient nature of life. The setting within the Grand Palais resembled a whimsical Wonderland, accentuated by vibrant mycelia wrapped in pink weeping willows. Blazy’s collaboration with Massaro showcased shoes adorned with whimsical mushroom heels, often featuring a delicate bird perched upon them—a delightful, poetic element.
The theme of birds permeated Blazy’s collection. His studio mood board exclusively displayed elegant portraits of avian muses, embodying nature in its freest and most celebratory form. To Blazy, birds symbolize the essence of femininity. “A woman transitions effortlessly between simplicity and extravagance.” The collection featured humble pigeon feathers alongside the stunning graphic cocoon of a bird of paradise. Van Gogh’s ravens, depicted on a golden silk backdrop, seemed to come alive. The bride, the stunning Indian model Bhavitha Mandava, wore a suit crafted from dove feathers complemented by a mother-of-pearl finish, with a captivating headdress made of white raffia.
The opening look epitomized the challenge Blazy set for himself: “If we strip away the iconic signatures—the tweeds, the trims—can it still embody Chanel?” He provided a classic skirt suit crafted from delicate, sheer mousseline, adorned with pearls that enhanced the classic chains and the signature two-tone slingbacks—dubbed the “anti-pump”—and a 2.55 bag made again from mousseline, suspended from sheer “chains” extending the fluidity of the ensemble. “These elements, like the slingback and the 2.55 bag, are universal. They form the foundation of Chanel’s allure.”
However, this classicism intertwined effortlessly with sheer audacity. Modesty stemmed from the layering of lingerie, highlighting the exquisite physicality of each look. Blazy aimed to amplify the stories of the women wearing his creations by introducing “a lexicon of symbols,” such as initials and hearts for personalization. He engaged in conversation with Stephanie, the model showcasing his first look, who expressed a desire for a heart over her own heart, alongside a love letter from her husband tucked inside her bag. Blazy embroidered those heartfelt words, nearly invisible within that bag. “The women are bringing their own narratives into this space,” he emphasized. The collection further unfolded with striking mousselines, like flamingo pink underlayers complemented by vermilion hues, each embroidered with birds and mushrooms crafted by Lesage artisans, paired with transparent bags holding mementos—including a miniature mousseline No. 5 bottle for buyers.
“Does couture carry the emotion we seek?” Blazy contemplated. “It’s tailored for individual bodies but is also deeply symbolic. We avoided casting only young models. Our search was global for women who exude maturity. I desire the allure of the unknown, of women who intrigue.” Stephanie, who embodies a fusion of Italian and Guadeloupean heritage, made her way from Pennsylvania to meet Matthieu, a meeting deemed serendipitous.
Blazy’s vision extended to the practical aspects of couture for Chanel’s clientele, illustrating that it accommodates all aspects of a woman’s life—morning, noon, and night. Couture did not solely signify embellishment; Chanel’s suits were devoid of excessive decoration yet still epitomized couture. “I wished to revive that essence,” said Blazy, introducing versatile elements into daywear. A striking black crepe suit included intricate parakeet buttons, a reflection of Chanel’s original designs. “It’s empowering to think a woman can wear couture to work without it declaring itself loudly.” One of Blazy’s standout pieces was a simple black dress crafted from this crepe, exemplifying the quiet complexities of couture. “You can’t imagine the intricate linings and pocketing hidden beneath the surface.” He chuckled, infused with love for this idea.
Intriguingly, Blazy also paid homage to the artistic illusions inherent in haute couture, showcasing a favorite piece evocative of a Jackson Pollock masterpiece, featuring raffia artfully stitched into yarn resembling feathers. Chanel adored elevating simple materials—cotton, canvas, muslin—to luxury. Blazy’s black raffia coat, achieved through collaboration with Lesage, exemplified this philosophy. The creation involved crafting a new tweed from shadowed raffia, resulting in various shades of black that almost seemed colorful. Blazy expressed his admiration: “One of the most captivating aspects of couture lies in the hidden details.” This contemplation led me to ponder where one of my favorite pieces—a jacket, skirt, and shirt crafted from crosshatched tulle netting—would fit within Blazy’s aesthetic. Did the pockets feature charming little budgies swaying on their perches?
Initially, Blazy envisioned his inaugural couture collection to be grand and strikingly voluminous—an understandable aspiration. However, upon deeper reflection, he streamlined many elements, reducing excessive jewelry. The result emphasized linear shapes that came to life dynamically with movement. “Everything appears sensual, as movement brings it to just above the knee. The design is animated rather than rigid. The body becomes the centerpiece.” Blazy’s ultimate expression of this concept is his tank top paired with trompe-l’œil “jeans,” a signature style he so brilliantly executed at Bottega Veneta and previously at Margiela. At Chanel, he presented this fusion as a canvas for creativity. A space filled with potential.
As Blazy reflects on his unveiling, he noted the importance of every detail in creating a truly unforgettable show. “Think of it as cooking. I gather all the ingredients, and when everything is ready, I serve the dish, hoping the ambiance allows for something remarkable. Is the setting right? How do the models connect with the audience? That interaction can enhance the experience significantly.” Yet, on this special day, everything seemed poised for triumph.
In a delightful twist, following Blazy’s successful ready-to-wear show, model Awar Odhiang danced alongside him to “Rhythm is a Dancer,” which subsequently surged to the top of Spotify’s charts. For the final couture look, Blazy chose Joan Baez’s soulful rendition of “Diamonds and Rust,” a performance that surely deserves its moment in the limelight on the streaming platform. But one thing is certain: the magic of mushrooms played no role in this triumph.
