During a recent visit, I had the pleasure of exploring the depths of their workshop. While I’ve known Justin and his father for years, this experience was a rare peek behind the scenes. We could have easily lost track of time in that fabric room.
Traditionally, tailors would house extensive rolls of fabric on-site. Yet, with modern cost-cutting measures, these stocks have significantly decreased, and most garments are now sourced from swatches. This shift has diluted the connection customers feel to fabric, reducing their overall understanding of materials.
Ascot Chang, however, boasts nearly 6000 rolls available on-site. Even they face limitations in showcasing these immense choices at their physical locations or trunk shows. Our visit to browse through their array was a rare opportunity.
I decided on a pink stripe for a new shirt commission. Patterns like this offer an elegant touch when worn without a tie, while remaining subtle enough to pair with patterned ties seamlessly.
While Ascot Chang offers their own exclusive shirts, they also collaborate with various brands like The Armoury and Bryceland’s. Their partnerships have allowed them to explore innovative styles and fabrics.
Among the unique materials was a heavy buffalo-check wool roll, previously utilized by Bryceland’s. They also showcased some unusual options like rayon and terry cloth.
Most of the inventory consists of twills and poplins, but the standout feature is undoubtedly the vibrant color palette. During my visit, I wore a lilac shirt from Thomas Mason, a choice inspired by observing a similar one at Ralph Lauren. It was a testament to the power of seeing fabrics in their full glory, as swatches alone wouldn’t suffice.
While there may not be rolls in their stores, Ascot does provide pre-made shirts, boosting confidence in experimenting with new colors or patterns. Browsing the vast selection at the factory led me to reconsider stronger blues, ginghams, and intriguing stripes.
Ascot Chang excels in producing high-quality machine-made garments. While they might not incorporate hand-attached collars and sleeves like some Italian brands, their reputation for consistency and value remains unmatched.
Despite occasionally receiving requests for hand-sewn buttons and buttonholes, interest in these features appears to have declined over the years, as Justin noted. “It seemed like a trend about 10 years ago. Nowadays, customers seem less focused on those aspects.”
When success is gauged by details, look for elements such as fine stitching and precise pattern matching. Ascot also offers impressive hand embroidery.
One intriguing element observed in the workshop was the thread ‘bible.’ This invaluable book compiled by staff catalogues thread used for each fabric, ensuring continuity for customers who may select the same fabric in the future.
Ascot Chang holds a rich heritage in shirtmaking, a craft often mistakenly attributed exclusively to Europe. Justin’s grandfather trained as a shirtmaker in Shanghai during the 1940s and relocated to Hong Kong in 1951, opening his first store in 1953.
His father laid the foundation for the New York store in 1986, adding an additional shop in Hong Kong, another in Shanghai, a franchise in the Philippines, and numerous trunk shows worldwide. Tailoring services are offered, primarily due to longstanding relationships with tailors in New York.
Despite their retail presence, 70% of Ascot’s business circles around bespoke orders, consolidated through a single desk and manager stationed in Hong Kong. The sheer scale of their bespoke operation is evident in the extensive pattern room.
During my visit, they located my pattern from 2018, allowing us to compare it to the most recent shirt made for me through Bryceland’s. Additionally, they prepared a basic white cloth fitting shirt for consideration, making the fitting experience at the factory seamless, and paving the way for my new pink striped shirt.
I plan to share insights on this new shirt once it’s complete, as Ascot remains a noteworthy option for those looking for quality craftsmanship, particularly with a shift away from the demand for excessive handwork.
You can find Ascot’s stores on their website here. Currently, trunk shows are held across 10 different countries – details here. A bespoke shirt in New York starts at $380, in Hong Kong HK$2150, and in London $280 (taxes and duties included in the others, but not London).
The shirt I wore during my visit was by Luca Avitabile, featuring an oxford weave from Thomas Mason – specifically the Cambridge quality, code FM33854. The suit is from Assisi, detailed here.
