Introducing Bao: Sexton suits and Vinted scrolling

It felt like a bit of a watershed moment, if I’m honest, hiring our first real staff member. 

So it’s nice for everyone to meet Bao, but he’s also an interesting guy in his own right, and I wanted to chat to him about what he particularly loves about classic menswear, including his clothing ups and downs. A bit like a reader profile, but in this case a staff profile. 

Bao grew up in Vietnam, and was into suits from an early age, making best use of the local tailors to make himself versions of everything he saw online. He then came to the UK to study at Cambridge (a first in Politics & International Relations – he’s annoyingly bright) and afterwards decided to pursue his love of menswear, working in retail for a couple of years before joining PS.

Permanent Style: Bao, what first got you into tailoring? 

Bao: It was pretty early – my mum got me my first suit when I was 14. In fact she was working with one of the local tailors, doing their logistics, so we got a pretty good deal. It was black – not what I would choose now of course – but I remember loving it. 

I should hope not, it’s a fireable offence. How about the style, anything flashy?

It was pretty straightforward really, single breasted with a notch, three piece with a waistcoat. That’s something that seems a little exciting when you’re that age, getting a well-fitting waistcoat. 

I remember the shoulders fitting really well. That was probably the ‘wow’ factor for me: no off-the-peg suit had ever fitted like that. The jacket was probably a little short, the trousers a little skinny, but it was a big jump up for me, I loved that suit to death. 

Were you deep into the rules and the traditions, doing lots of research?

Not really, I didn’t get into that until I was at uni and had to wear black tie for the first time, for a ball. The invitation was last minute and I had to find the next closest Asian guy in terms of sizing and borrow his. It was terrible – notch lapel, clip-on bow tie – but it made me feel really good.

The feeling of being dressed up?

That, but also everyone being in the same thing, all going down for dinner together. 

So that sent you down the rabbit hole?

Yes, then when I went back to Vietnam I had black tie made locally, in the way I wanted from everything I’d read. They still had my pattern on file, and sadly I hadn’t grown much since I was a teenager so it worked out well! 

It would be nice to write an article some time on making things in Vietnam over the years, if you’re interested. 

Yes, happy to. I’ve had quite a few things made at this point and certainly have some reflections. 

At the same time as that black tie I had a suit made for garden parties – a powder-blue linen, modelled off a Ralph Lauren one I’d seen. That worked out well, because it did genuinely work as a ‘three way’ suit – you could wear all the parts separately. 

I also had that one deconstructed, with no canvas or lining. That was good because it meant it didn’t have any of the fusing in it they’d usually use. I’ve dry cleaned that one dozens of times and it’s really held up. 

When did you have this Edward Sexton suit made – the navy one you’re pictured in here?

That was my next commission I think. I wanted to experience Savile Row, I had read Permanent Style for all the different options there, and then I went up to London and spent a day going into lots of houses and asking what they did. 

Edward Sexton were the friendliest – I still remember how nice Henry Sexton and Alex Lamb were. They just seemed happy to chat about things and to let me try things on. It made everything a lot easier. They put a double-breasted jacket on me, and even though it was a size too big, it felt great. The shoulders were exactly what I wanted, the silhouette was lovely. 

A nice lesson for Savile Row, perhaps. Not everywhere is so friendly or has something you can try on. And you did the offshore service with Sexton?

Yes I did, particularly because I’d read about that on PS. I remember Nina [Penlington] and Sam Kerr fitting me in the space across the road, up on the fourth floor. It was boiling hot that day. 

Also, I don’t mean to criticise, but it felt slightly strange going to a different space across the road, I wasn’t sure what was going on. I guess you have a certain image of what you get on Savile Row, and you know from reading that there are workshops downstairs and so on, but it was a different experience to what I was expecting. 

I think sometimes tailors that don’t provide that traditional experience can underestimate it. The longer I write about tailoring, the more I understand why some people are happy to pay for that kind of experience, and the more I empathise with it. 

Didn’t you tell me a story about an American who said that during a fitting?

Oh yes: apparently he got a phone call during his fitting, and when he picked up the phone said ‘I’m sorry, I can’t talk right now, I’m at my tailor’. Then he turned to the cutter with this big smile and said ‘I’ve always wanted to say that!’ 

You can laugh and say that person isn’t valuing the garment the way they should, but you don’t necessarily know that’s true, and there’s nothing wrong with enjoying an experience. 

Where is this blazer from Bao?

It’s a vintage one from Ralph Lauren, I picked it up at a second-hand shop in Vietnam a year ago. It’s a nice ventless 4×1, and it has that keeper strap on the jigger button that you see some times. 

It also has embroidery on the inside that looks like Chinese, but no Chinese friends I have know what it means. I assume it was probably the wearer’s name, but if anyone else out there knows, do let me know!

Where do you tend to shop for second-hand things?

I prefer to browse in person when I can. There are some good shops in Vietnam, and in London I like Hornets. The problem in London is that everyone is taller than me. It’s easier in Asia, and with online sellers from Japan. 

Do you prefer eBay or Vinted for online?

Vinted – the UI is just better, it’s easier to doom scroll! Also on Vinted people are more open to talking, negotiating. You can low ball someone and get a real bargain. 

The jeans I’m wearing are from Vinted. I have a pair in a darker colour – they’re the JW Anderson collab with Uniqlo – and really like them, so I waited around for a while to find a lighter colour too. 

Any advice for buying second hand?

Well, one big danger I find is that it’s easy to hoard things – to buy lots you might not even wear, because it’s discounted. I try to ask myself the question: would I still buy this if it didn’t have that label in? That works pretty well. 

I see you’re wearing a shirt in the exclusive PS oxford cloth, did you have that made in Vietnam?

Yes, before I joined PS! They did a good job. My Mum thinks it’s pretty funny that I’m now working for the guy I was obsessed about buying things from. 

You’ve had a few things for ‘uniform’ since you joined PS as well – which is your favourite?  

I do like the oxford cloth, it’s surprisingly distinctive. People can tell it’s nicer than just a regular striped shirt. But my favourite is probably the Linen Harrington, because it’s the one thing my girlfriend steals – that makes it a lot easier to justify having another piece of clothing in an already crowded house. 

Finally, where will you go for your next tailoring commission? Did Savile Row spoil you for everywhere else?

No, I’m not paid enough yet for that! If money was no object, I think I’d have something from Nina Penlington again, or a dream would be a morning suit from Stephen Hitchcock for my wedding day. 

But the next thing I’ll do is try something else from Vietnam, when I go back later this year. It’s a growing and improving market, so it’s interesting to go and see everything when I’m back. 

Clothes pictured:

Outfit 1:

• Suit: Edward Sexton offshore bespoke, Dugdale Needle Ready (2828) 290g/10oz
• Shirt: Made to measure by a local Vietnamese tailor  
• Cufflinks: Berry Bros. & Rudd No 3 Gin Cufflinks
• Tie: Hermès 
• Pocket square: White linen from Turnbull & Asser
• Loafers: Fugashin
• Watch: 1963 Omega Seamaster 

Outfit 2:

• Jacket: Vintage Ralph Lauren
• Shirt: PS Striped Oxford cloth, made by Pham Brothers 
• Jeans: Uniqlo x JWA 
• Belt: Myrqvist
• Loafers: Myrqvist Lysekil II
• Watch: Orient Bambino, 1,000th anniversary of Hanoi edition

Outfit 3:

• Shirt: Ralph Lauren
• Sweater: Natalino
• Jeans: Uniqlo x JWA
• Belt: Myrqvist
• Boat shoes: Myrqvist Sandhamn
• Watch: Casio FW91