MILAN — Simone Bellotti, the creative director of Jil Sander, invites attendees to experience something altogether different at the brand’s headquarters during Milan Design Week. “Expect a very different atmosphere compared to those of the fashion shows,” he asserts, hinting at a new dimension for the iconic label.
Bellotti will present his inaugural project for this renowned design event under the OTB label. This follows his debut, where he showcased his ready-to-wear collections at the same venue last year.
The minimalist off-white setting, which overlooks the illustrious Sforzesco Castle, will transform into a space known as “Reference Library.” This exhibition will spotlight books carefully curated by 60 international creatives from various domains.
Developed in collaboration with biannual publication Apartamento and Milanese architectural firm Studioutte, this exhibition is set to commence on Monday and will be open until April 24.
The atmosphere is anticipated to be reflective, elevating the entire experience into something akin to a ritual. Visitors will have the chance to enter the brand’s historic showroom. Here, rows of chrome lecterns will create an inviting ambiance, illuminated by warm reading lights. This space is designed for contemplation, offering a serene escape from the hustle and bustle outside.
With only 60 slots available each hour, visitors must register to gain entrance to this unique library experience. Upon arrival, they will receive a pair of white gloves, allowing them to delve into the selected tomes while engaging with the accompanying texts that explain each contributor’s thought process behind their chosen works.
Bellotti expressed his curiosity about the potential impact of this setup on attendees. “I’m curious to see what kind of effect it will have on the audience,” he mentioned in an interview ahead of the event’s launch.
This project intertwines elements ranging from a desire for tangible cultural experiences, steering away from screens, to fostering community engagement and cross-cultural dialogue. While many brands use Milan Design Week to spotlight final products, Jil Sander aims to unveil the inspirations and influences that shape their creative processes, thus exploring the deeper narrative behind the designs.
Bellotti recounted a conversation from last September with Marco Velardi, a co-founder of Apartamento, which helped catalyze this idea. “I thought it was a beautiful way to connect so many people, to create a dialogue and real exchange, which is essential today,” he reflected.
The list of contributors is impressive, featuring names like Swiss curator Hans Ulrich Obrist, British artist Faye Toogood, and Academy Award-nominated costume designer Miyako Bellizzi, among others.
Bellotti expressed enthusiasm for the range of contributors, emphasizing that Milan Design Week has evolved over the years into a talented hub attracting diverse disciplines. “It’s true that fashion has become mainstream, but Milan Design Week has become a bigger pole,” he stated.
Despite his background in literature, Bellotti admitted he was unfamiliar with many of the titles to be displayed. However, he relished the insights gained from revisiting works he once knew, like “Perfume: The Story of a Murderer” by Patrick Süskind, which inspired fresh interpretations.
In sharing his own selection for the exhibition, he chose “II Barone Rampante,” or “The Baron in the Trees,” a 1957 novel by Italo Calvino. He sees it as an allegory of independence—following the story of Cosimo, who climbs treetops to observe life uniquely, gaining clarity unavailable to those grounded below.
“I played it safe; this is a book so ingrained in collective memory,” joked Bellotti, who even named a cat after the book’s protagonist. He finds the narrative’s unique style and depth captivating, appreciating its blend of profound insights with an ironic and fantastical tone. “It describes how we sometimes need to step back and view our surroundings from a personal perspective,” he explained.
Currently, Bellotti is engrossed in a collection of letters by the renowned artist Mark Rothko. This piqued his interest after visiting an exhibition centered around Rothko in Florence. He describes the letters as pivotal in understanding Rothko’s creative journey and artistic choices.
Through “Reference Library,” Bellotti hopes to facilitate similar meaningful conversations. “I like the analog aspect of all this—how we reached out to people and curated this real research,” he said. “Today, even the ordinary seems extraordinary,” he added with a reflective tone.
The white gloves given to visitors symbolize the sanctity of the moment, prompting attendees to engage thoughtfully with the materials. While the books will only be available for on-site consultations, the gloves serve as a special memento—a tangible keepsake from a day well spent.
By intertwining literature and design, Jil Sander, under the vision of Simone Bellotti, seeks not just to display fashion but to delve deeper into the myriad inspirations that fuel creativity.
