BAD HAIR DAY: Recently, the French fashion label Lemaire found itself at the center of a controversy in China with the launch of its inaugural olfactory collection campaign.
The uproar emerged from several editorial images within the campaign. One particular shot depicted a model engaging sensually with a long braided hairstyle reminiscent of the Qing Dynasty, while another image featured the braid alongside a pair of scissors. A third showcased the braid hanging over a button-down shirt, generating a sharp reaction.
Chinese netizens expressed their discontent with the brand’s handling of these historical symbols, questioning the appropriateness of such imagery. A comment on Xiaohongshu, a prominent social commerce platform, highlighted the “spooky editorial direction” that raised concerns among viewers.
One user, under the handle @crossingnote, shared their disappointment as a long-time follower of Lemaire, particularly in reference to the creative presentation of the braid, especially next to scissors. They strongly urged others to trust their instincts when encountering content that feels culturally insensitive.
Continuing the conversation, @crossingnote questioned how a culturally aware brand could overlook hiring a local Chinese consultant. Their critique resonated widely, amassing over 11,000 likes across Xiaohongshu and TikTok by the time of this report.
The fallout escalated quickly following the campaign’s release. In response to the backlash, Lemaire disabled comments on Instagram and removed the controversial posts from both Instagram and Xiaohongshu.
Despite the backlash, the scent diffuser crafted from handwoven linen, emitting notes of dry hay and deep amber, remains available on its official website.
This campaign’s braided imagery recalls Lemaire’s previous Chinese New Year collection, which featured braided horsehair on its signature croissant bag. That collection also met with criticism, with some netizens likening the imagery to scenes from Hong Kong ghost stories.
In a statement, Lemaire acknowledged the concerns surrounding the imagery of the Tresse from the Objets Senteur collection. They expressed sincere apologies for any discomfort caused and emphasized that the design was intended as an exploration of material and form.
The brand committed to addressing the feedback and enhancing its cultural sensitivity review processes in future projects. They stated that it was never their intention to reference any specific culture in a way that caused offense.
After receiving criticism for their statement being posted in a temporary format on Instagram, which is inaccessible in China, Lemaire faced further scrutiny for its approach.
This controversy emerges at a pivotal moment for Lemaire, which has been ramping up its operations in China, highlighted by the recent unveiling of its flagship store in Shanghai.
Instead of launching in major retail hubs like Shanghai or Beijing, Lemaire strategically opened its first Chinese store in Chengdu Taikoo Li in November 2024. This decision served as a trial for the brand in the region, achieving impressive monthly sales figures averaging around 7 million renminbi (approximately $1 million).
In an increasingly interconnected fashion landscape, sensitivity toward cultural nuances cannot be overstated. Foreign brands must learn from these experiences to ensure that their messaging is both respectful and inclusive, steering clear of missteps that could alienate potential consumers.
