I considered patching them, but finding similar linens proved difficult. The options often skew overly grassy or too blue, while the browner, olive shades are seldom available but are the most versatile in my experience.
This topic came up during a summer chat with Nathan Hellard, the charming Frenchman who leads Maison Hellard. Nathan generously offered to recreate my olive shade, and after some trial and error, we finally nailed it.
The old Paul Stuart trousers made frequent appearances on the blog, as shown in the images above. Each instance highlighted the lack of comparable options, a gap that still persists.
It appears that mills favor vibrant green linens, perhaps because they evoke a more summery feel. However, in an outfit, that shade often overwhelms. It’s possible to embrace the sun in a subtler way.
Olive greens typically blend better in urban settings and are more suited to evening wear, particularly in regions where sunny days aren’t guaranteed during the warmer months.
This versatility shines through, with olive hues pairing effortlessly with both brown and black footwear. The combination indicates how these tones can work in various color palettes.
In the picture above, I’m showcasing the new linen trousers worn with a mid-brown jacket, denim shirt, and dark-brown loafers. This pairing strikes a balance, not dissimilar to a previous shot of me in Florence at the Tailors Symposium.
In contrast, the same trousers worn with black shoes and neutral tones, like white and grey, demonstrate how well this olive linen can adapt. Its dark, muted quality makes it compatible with a variety of colors.
People familiar with my style know this reasoning also motivated the creation of our Fox Flannel in a similarly muted green. My go-to high-twist trousers in the Fox Air bunch share a like olive tone.
Personal preference drives how we each choose to dress. For me, these olive shades create particularly stylish and enjoyable combinations.
You can find the linen available for purchase on the Maison Hellard website; however, it does not belong to us. Tailors should source it through their regular orders from Hellard.
The quality is signature Hellard’s 360g (12.5oz) 2×2 twill, which I have found effective in previous trousers. The weight feels lighter than expected and sits between Italian and Irish linens in terms of stiffness.
I have exclusively crafted trousers from this fabric since that’s what I will utilize most—paired with summer jackets ranging from cream and beige to black, grey, and dark navy. It could also be styled into a suit—a softly tailored jacket could offer a stylish casual summer choice.
The linen comes in a standard width (150cm), woven in Italy, and piece-dyed. The retail price stands at £98 (€112) per meter, exclusive of taxes. Hellard provides free shipping for orders exceeding €200.
Currently, 87 meters are available, but we intend to reweave this if needed.
Previous images originated from the following articles:
- Getting dressed: Tan jacket and green linen trousers (2015)
- The Sagan: A high-end Belgian loafer from Allan Baudoin (2016)
- How to wear a cream jacket (2020)
In the new images, when paired with brown:
- Vittorio Salino bespoke jacket in Maison Hellard linen
- Denim shirt from Al Bazar
- Belgravia loafers from Edward Green
And with black:
- White Ramie shirt from 100 Hands/PS
- Grey cashmere shawl-collar cardigan from Drake’s
- Piccadilly loafers from Edward Green in London Grain leather
