NEW YORK — Rachel Scott immerses herself in understanding the essence of the Proenza Schouler woman.
On Wednesday, she officially launched the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection for the iconic brand, marking her debut following a creative presentation last September. After stepping in for founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who moved to LVMH’s Loewe, Scott has been diving deep into the brand’s rich history and engaging with loyal Proenza Schouler shoppers.
Scott faces the task of reinterpreting the brand’s signature modern tailoring and sculptural dresses tailored for an urban, sophisticated woman. To achieve this, she closely examined the nuances of the quintessential New York woman.
“She can embody sensuality, express anger, and sometimes defy perfection,” Scott shared backstage following the show.
Complexity and texture, hallmarks of her style, were abundant in this collection. Marrying these themes with Proenza’s ethos resulted in silhouettes that appeared twisted, relaxed, and intentionally undone.
Turtlenecks and blazers cinched at the neck adorned trousers featuring buttons that complemented flared designs. The palette combined muted creams, greys, taupe, and black, enhanced by vibrant bursts of red and blue, alongside a striking print inspired by distorted photographs of night orchids. Kitten heels with sharply defined toes mingled with pumps boasting squared-off fronts, while sturdy leather boots meant for city adventures stomped alongside flouncy, fringed sandals. Many dresses were cut to sit just below the bra line, cleverly creating an illusion of extended legs.
“She’s always punctual, but today there’s a sense of delay,” Scott remarked.
This notion manifested in Scott’s styling choices: dresses displayed a slightly rumpled appearance, with drapery and tucks intentionally designed to feel a bit off-kilter, as highlighted in her show notes.
Accessories played a pivotal role—a core component of the Proenza DNA since the celebrated PS1 handbag debuted in 2008. This season, pieces from the archives made a notable return. The Hex bag, a generously sized tote introduced in 2016, was featured alongside models carrying bowling bags in mini and maxi proportions, and an elegant evening clutch that artfully blended calf hair, cashmere suede, French calf, and kidskin.
This moment is critical for Proenza Schouler, a label previously hailed as New York’s rising star, now navigating a multi-year turnaround. Scott’s arrival injects fresh energy—she received the CFDA Award for Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2024, and her own brand, Diotima, is set to showcase on Sunday and enjoys avid support, especially within its own city. Her next challenge lies in adapting that popularity to a larger brand with an established identity and clientele.
