The latest suit from The Anthology is ideal for those seeking a versatile, laid-back outfit. It pairs beautifully with knits and chambray, as well as dressier options like a shirt and tie. This blend of casual comfort and classic style is particularly appealing in double-breasted designs crafted from relaxed materials like corduroy.
Though the suit meets my expectations, there are some unique features worthy of discussion—from the fabric to the design of the peak lapels.
Crafted from a fine-wale corduroy in a rich dark brown, referred to by the Anthology as ‘caviar’, the material choice really stands out. The brand excels at selecting distinctive and elegant fabrics that resonate with modern tastes.
I was drawn to the deep hue of this corduroy. Paired with a black option also released, it renews the perception of how corduroy can be both contemporary and stylish.
After wearing it for a few weeks, the color remained as impressive as I had anticipated. It complements both black and brown footwear excellently. The fabric, despite being lighter than I expected, conveys a sophisticated feel.
This aspect is somewhat expected given the fine wale construction—‘wales’ refer to the ribs that run vertically in corduroy—but it feels more luxurious compared to other fine wales I’ve encountered.
In comparison to a wider wale like my Ciardi single-breasted cord, this piece appears more akin to suiting fabric rather than a bulkier, sturdier option. This might not appeal to everyone, but others might find it enhances wearability for daily use.
It’s noteworthy that both brown corduroys I mentioned—the Ciardi and the Anthology options—are exclusive to their brands and not available for purchase through other tailors.
Another standout feature of this suit is the distinctive design of the peak lapels, which some readers might find intriguing.
These lapels are set lower on the body and have a more horizontal point than typical DB lapels. While styles have shifted over the decades, these remain on the flatter side, which is an interesting deviation.
An even more unique aspect is the rounded peak, which catches the eye and invites discussion. While I typically favor a classic point, I find these lapels do align well with the relaxed style of the suit.
While this detail adds a touch of individual flair, it isn’t something I would seek in every suit. However, it greatly enhances the character of this piece.
The fit of the suit is commendable, though there’s a small issue with some creasing below the collar, indicating that it may sit slightly too high. This may resolve itself with wear, but if not, it can be adjusted later.
Crucially, the design team succeeded in creating a relaxed fit, conducive to the soft material and overall style.
Historically, The Anthology tended toward closer fits, which I would often adjust during fittings. However, they have gradually transitioned to a more relaxed style, aligning with my preferences, as discussed with the team during their trunk shows.
They approach this evolution by balancing their design preferences with client feedback. Unlike many smaller tailoring firms, they embrace a design-led philosophy evident in their cloth selections and jacket constructions.
Here, I highlight the suit styled in a couple of different ways. One look pairs it with a grey-checked shirt and black knitted-silk tie, while the other showcases a more casual ensemble with a knit and scarf.
The shirt and tie combination represents the smartest way to style the suit, with a casually patterned shirt in brushed cotton for a relaxed flair. The knit offers a comfortable alternative, allowing for a no-collar look, enhanced with a scarf for warmth.
A third option could involve a casual shirt without a tie, perhaps in denim or chambray, which would fit seamlessly into the overall versatility of the suit.
In summary, this suit evolves into a highly adaptable piece, especially as both the trousers and jacket can be worn separately, showcasing its versatility—a true example of a ‘three-way’ suit.
The black knit I paired is a new shade of the PS Finest Crewneck, launching next week. The scarf is an older piece from Drake’s, versatile for understated patterns. The shoes are vintage Ralph Lauren, rounding out the ensemble.
In the alternative outfit, the tie comes from Tie Your Tie, featuring a broader style than typical silk knits. The shirt is by D’Avino, showcasing the Balmoral quality from Thomas Mason. The outer coat is the PS Donegal.
This bespoke piece from The Anthology was tailored in Hong Kong during trunk shows. The cost stood at £3,200, with bespoke suits starting at £3,000, while the MTM version is priced at £2,050 and RTW at £1,120 (converted from US dollars).
